November 2024

Tying up my hiking boots is one of my favorite feelings of anticipation, knowing that soon I’ll be in the midst of nature. I know I’ll be dwarfed by forests and silenced by the orchestra of bugs and leaves. If I’m lucky, I’ll come face-to-face with wild animals. 

I’ve spent hours watching cardinals dancing above me and deer equally frozen as we size up each other. I’ve marveled at wild emu, kangaroo, herds of bison, and so many amazing creatures just within a stone’s throw.

My boots are important enough to carry around the world as I search for the best hikes. Sometimes I camp in the woods, but mostly I enjoy day hikes. I like returning home after many hours on the trail, exhausted and salty from my own sweat, to savor the memories. 

Recently, I spent the day walking the trails of Cinque Terre along the Italian coast. It was so breathtaking that it brought me to tears many times. It gave me gratitude for all the wonderful walks I’ve enjoyed in my life. It wasn’t the best of my life, but it was up there. It made me think of all the unforgettable day hikes of my life.

To rank as an epic hike, first and foremost the experience needs to lead me deep into nature and far away from humans. I’m not a big fan of trails that are filled with people, in general, although sometimes the path is so enchanting that I don’t mind. 

It also needs to be somewhat challenging, even though that means different things to different people. When I was visiting all the national parks in the United States, I’d often stop in at the ranger’s station to investigate the most challenging hike in the park. Those trails were the least traveled and usually the most wonderful.

Usually, I love a hike for 90% of the time. For the remaining 10%, I wonder exactly why I thought it was such a good idea. I’m not the most fit person in the world. The best hiking trails make me breathe deeply and feel like I’ve really overcome a challenge. 

Summits are glorious, always.

Hikes are almost always worth it, unless you get lost — which I did, for example, hiking the Slot Canyon Trail in the Anza Borrego State Park in California. That day, as I scrambled with an empty water jug over loose rocks, well off trail and in the direction of a road I could see in the distance, scared me. I’d been lost before, like wandering to the blowholes along the Exumas coast from Boo Boo Hill in the Bahamas, but nothing like that. I’m glad I had enough power for my phone for GPS to lead me back to my vehicle.

Even still, I tend to hike by myself. To be honest, I prefer it. I can walk as fast or as slow as I like. I can take breaks to admire pretty plants or have a drink of water. It’s quiet enough that I’m more likely to see animals. But it requires me to be prepared. Then it’s so fun.

I want to share these hikes with you — and maybe inspire you to tie up your boots, too.

My Top 10 Day Hikes in the World

First, I’ll start with some honorable mentions that almost made the cut. 

Honorable Mentions: Playa de Güigüí on Gran Canaria in Spain, the Pinnacles in Nambung National Park in Western Australia, and the Hidden Valley Trail in Joshua Tree National Park, California, USA

The hike to Playa de Güigüí on Gran Canaria in Spain starts with a very strenuous climb to the summit that leads down a long and leisurely trail to a deserted beach. It’s not accessible by bus, and its remoteness lends to the hike’s charms. I heard of plans to build a factory next to it, effectively ruining the experience. Let’s hope that gets caught up in Spanish bureaucracy.

Another honorable mention goes to The Pinnacles in Nambung National Park in Western Australia. There’s not much of a walk to get there, but when you do, it’s really something else. The site’s namesake refers to natural limestone structures formed around 30,000 years ago that receded and eroded into tall pillars that jut strangely from the ground. You feel like you’re on the moon. It’s likely to see kangaroos or perhaps wild emu during your wanderings, as well.

Finally, I have to give a shout-out to the short-but-fantastic Hidden Valley Trail in Joshua Tree National Park in California, USA. It’s just one mile long, but it’s very memorable with Joshua trees, wildflowers, special rock formations, and many sweet nooks of natural beauty. You can’t miss it.

10. Synchronous Firefly Mating Display, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, North Carolina, USA

My friend Jeffrey knew what he was doing when he called me one day to invite me on a camping adventure in the Great Smoky Mountains National Park in North Carolina, USA. He had read about this certain type of firefly that, during just a couple weeks a year and only in a very specific location, all flash at the same time as part of a mating ritual. I was in!

When I arrived at our meeting spot, I discovered he had brought along a prissy girlfriend and her pale, lanky, and already-bored teens. They all refused to go, which meant he wasn’t going either. Instead gave me a bear box, a map, and a lift up to the start of a trail to a campsite he had reserved as part of the park’s lottery system. I was excited!

Jeffrey was running late when he dropped me off, so I had to hurry up the mountain toward the group campsite. I was grateful for the hiking poles as I walked the four miles with my pack filled for a few days in the woods. It was worth it! After passing a bear on the trail, I arrived at dusk in time for the show. The fireflies, as promised, shone bright and shut off all together, like magic.

9. Sierra Negra Volcano, Galapagos, Ecuador

The walk to the volcano crater on the island of Isabela doesn’t take long, but getting to the trailhead is itself an adventure. Most of the Galapagos island chain is accessible by cruise ship, which you can only hop on once you get there. I was lucky to be living just an hour’s flight from the entry to the national park, so I spent two weeks there.

The Sierra Negra Volcano is a special place in part because you have to traverse cooled lava fields, lounging marine iguanas, and barking seals to get there. The volcano is now a caldera, which is a large volcanic depression that forms when the magma chamber collapses on itself. It’s an interesting natural phenomenon, the largest and most shallow caldera in the Galapagos.

When you stand on its edge, you can’t help but think of the evolution of both land and animal. All the changes come with adaptability!

8. Angel’s Landing, Zion National Park, Utah, USA

Having grown up on the other side of the country, I had no idea of the breathtaking beauty of Utah in the United States. It makes this list twice! A visit to Zion National Park involves some planning, as it can easily get overwhelmed with visitors. You’ll need to buy seats in the shuttle to get to the trailhead, and you’ll need a permit to hike. It’s worth the extra effort.

Angel’s Landing isn’t for those who are scared of heights. The trail itself leads over a thin, high path cut into the rock a century ago. I witnessed many people who couldn’t handle it — they were clinging to the rock’s edge as if the spinning world would push them off. 

But for those who make it? The view is gorgeous. You look through hoodoos, which are natural holes in the rock. With clear weather, you can see for miles over the mountains. It’s one of these breathtaking vistas that put all your troubles into perspective. We’re just specks of stardust, after all.

7. Pirin National Park, Bulgaria

Protected as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Pirin National Park in Bulgaria is a wonderful surprise of glacial lakes, wild herbs, and pretty paths. There are a few ways to access its well-marked trails, including one that requires a ride on a rickety chairlift to a backcountry hut near Popovo Lake.

The easiest way to get to the park is with an affordable shuttle from the quaint ski town of Bansko 30 minutes up the mountain to the Vihren Hut. I took this shuttle many times to enjoy the fresh air and wildflowers that lead toward five lovely lakes. Packing a particularly juicy local pear purchased for pennies from the weekly farmer’s market, I sat on the lake’s edge in bliss.

There’s nothing mind-blowing about this hike, but its simplicity echoes the gentle, peaceful energy of Bulgaria in general. I like that, which is why this hike makes my list of favorites.

6. “The Precipice” Acadia National Park, Maine, USA

As I traveled around the United States in a caravan while everyone else was stuck in a coronavirus lockdown, I was especially looking forward to getting up to Maine. It is remote and rare — with the spectacular Acadia National Park. 

I was lucky to score the one available camping spot at the official campground within the park, which allowed me to enjoy a variety of hikes. One of the most popular is known as The Beehive due to the shape of the rock. To reach the summit there, you’ll need to climb up metal handles somehow welded into the rock.

The problem is, The Beehive is famous. It was a busy trail, and that’s a problem as it’s likely you’re not at the same speed as the people before and after you. The solution is The Precipice, on which I could count fellow hikers on one hand. It was slightly more challenging than The Beehive but had the same metal handrails and epic vistas. I felt like I found a secret, and now I share that secret with you!

5. Abel Tasman Coast Track, South Island, New Zealand

The exceedingly magical New Zealand boasts 11 so-called “Great Walks,” and they are all great. Spectacular, really. I hiked five of them, and two made this list. What’s nice about New Zealand is that nearly every town has an i-Site, a public information center filled with maps and tips about local treks. It’s not hard to learn where to go to get yourself deep into the natural beauty that abounds here.

The Abel Tasman Coast Track, located near Motueka on the northern coast of the South Island, is a memorable way to spend a day or three. Like almost all of the Great Walks, you can get a permit to camp along the trail. Instead, I booked a water taxi to deliver me to the center of the trail so I could backtrack by foot. 

The track takes you along a blissful coastline, allowing swims in blue waters and jumps over rivers and streams. It meanders back and forth easily with little elevation change. A highlight is the famous “Apple Rock,” which really does look like a giant apple split down the middle.  

4. The Narrows, Zion National Park, Utah, USA

You’ll want to spend at least two days in Zion National Park, as The Narrows cannot be missed. It’s even better than Angel’s Landing, which is #8 on this list. You’ll want to wear sturdy waterproof shoes (like Tevas) and bring hiking poles, although you can rent walking sticks and boots at the park.  

Surprise! This trail demands hikers first trudge through a mile or so of waist-deep, chilly river water to continue on through ankle-deep waters toward a slot canyon. Plenty of my fellow hikers were unprepared, and they only made it a couple of miles in. But you’ll want to walk an additional five miles before things start getting special.

The Narrows is a slot canyon, and you’ll be glad you persevered when you see what so few people do. Slot canyons are natural formations made from ancient rivers cutting small passages in between tall walls of rock. It’s cooler there, no matter the temperature, and you’re likely to find a nice seat to enjoy a well-earned sandwich before heading back.

3. Acatenango Volcano, Guatemala

Technically a two-day hike, the summit to Acatenango Volcano had to make this list. It’s beyond epic — and one of the most challenging treks of my life. I wrote all the funny details of this adventure in “One-Way Ticket,” and it starts with booking a spot with one of the many tour outlets in Antigua, Guatemala.

They’ll pick you up in a bus, give you a packed lunch (mine included an entire baked potato), and a walking stick. And off you go, up one of the steepest and longest ascents I’ve experienced. It takes what feels like forever to make it to the base camp, but that’s when the show begins. As you enjoy food and hot chocolate around the fire, you can take in another fire: Fuego, the active volcano next door. It sputtered wildly, as we watched the lava flowing dangerously down the sides. 

You sleep for a few hours to hike the remainder in time to summit for sunrise. Acatenango is not active like Fuego, so it’s not dangerous. The summit is even more steep than the first climb, and I nearly didn’t make it. But I did, and I loved it.

2. Cinque Terre, Italy

As I mentioned, Cinque Terre was one of the best hikes of my life. To arrive, I took a train to Manarola, a cute town along the country’s western coast not so far from Monaco and Switzerland. From there, you can take a shuttle up to Volastra to begin the all-day trek. 

You’ll need to purchase a permit for most of the trail, which winds through vineyards, olive farms, and lemon orchards planted on the hillsides overlooking the Ligurian Sea. When you read about the trail, they describe the “heroic winemakers,” which makes me smile. Then I saw a man walk past me carrying a basket of freshly picked persimmons, and I smiled even more.

I walked from Volastra to Corniglia, then from Corniglia to Vernazza, and then from Vernazza to Monterosso. The trail at times required some deep breathing. But other times, it was easy and relaxed. It was filled with older people who seemed to really struggle; I was grateful to be young and fit enough to enjoy the day fully. I stopped for a lovely lunch, had a lemon granita at a bar along the way, and wandered the narrow streets. These picturesque towns are worth more than a day, but that’s all I had to give them. Let’s just say it left me wanting more!

1. Tongariro Alpine Crossing, North Island, New Zealand

If you can’t imagine it getting any better than Cinque Terre, well, welcome back to New Zealand. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is the stuff hikers’ dreams are made of. Logging in at around 26 kilometers, it’s basically as long as Cinque Terre. But instead of depositing you in cute Italian villages, you’ll see fantastic natural wonders that you can’t find anywhere else.

Imagine emerald green lakes, sapphire blue lakes, lava flows frozen mid-fall over mountains, and geothermal smoke escaping from the ground. Every turn was breathtaking, and it wasn’t just because of the climb. Like so many times in that country, I simply couldn’t believe my eyes. 

This is why I love hiking so much: You never know what you’ll discover in nature. When I’m walking a trail — even one as well-worn as the Tongariro Alpine Crossing — I feel like an explorer. Sometimes what is discovered is the smallest thing, and it may be just as magnificent as the grandest sights.